Islands of Kvarner
"KVARNER EL EL EL ZE ZE CURTO BUT THE TURKISH Pezo"
This proverb, fruit of the wisdom of the time when
it sailed just sailing or rowing, describing in exemplary status
of mind with which he faced (and faces), past the lighthouse Porer, extreme S
Istria, this arm of the sea about twenty miles
that leads you to the islands Dalmate.Non can not speak of this tract
of Croatia without regard to its extreme mutability weather
mainly due to the bora, which here, as in other areas of the Adriatic,
may suddenly appear to reach for power and intensity levels
hurricane raising very short-wave and pointed, close together and
often from different directions to create cross-sea, eddies and
sea current that can be up to 4-5 kts.
So before you tackle this and other crossings,
should listen carefully to the weather (in Croatia can be heard, even
in Italian, on VHF channel 69) to hear the views of local seamen and
control the appearance of the two major mountain ranges from which the bora: the
Ucka-snowy mountains, above Opatija Opatija-chain of Velebit and S River.
Before the arrival of gusts of bora in fact, appear on the reliefs
characteristics of clouds that form a cap, like icing on a
puffs on top of the mountains. Appearance of these clouds (seen a
not forgotten once more) should haul down everything and wait for the gusts
ahull, worn belts and everything that can fly off set (a
happened to me once to move from absolute calm to gusts that are attenuated and
when someone managed to get below deck to turn the
wind instrument, was still above the 55 Kts). The bora
has some peculiarities: 1) If the cap of clouds increases the wind
increases and vice versa 2) It meets all year round but is more frequent in winter when
may take up to 15 days, usually in summer no more than 2, bora
with hurricane force last two days at most 3) appears more often than the morning
afternoon and reaches its maximum
intensity in the morning to 9.00 am and the afternoon between 18.00 and 22.00, usually diminishes until it disappears
at noon and midnight. 4) If you started with the sky covered
begins to decrease when the sky was completely reassured
while it increases with the sky heralds the arrival of a new cyclone formation
5) usually in the bays the coasts from which the bora
offer little shelter (it's a wind that "falls" from the mountain and then you
faces the air coming from above and crushes you
water) better head out to sea where, usually decreases
intensity. Also important to observe the characteristics of the bay where
you stop, bald areas with rocks and twisted trees without vegetation
not promise anything good.
There are essentially two types of bora - a) Bora Chiara, anticyclone, a
air movement between a maximum high pressure over central Europe and the Mediterranean
depression, brings clear skies, dry climate, even if
the temperature drops a bit (my favorite is the time to go out on the boat),
come from NE to N and Kvarner Ucka from Mt. - B) Dark Bora,
cyclonic depressions caused by moving the Adriatic,
drawing cold air and damp from Central Europe, begins with
sky covered by a dense layer of clouds from SW
and often replaces a moderate south wind, coming from NE to E in the Kvarner
the Velebit mountain chain, often followed by a phase of bora
clear.
Porer past the lighthouse, going on to S there are 3 main routes
1) - observed Osor route to 98 ° distance 21 nm. the passage,
topped by a swing bridge, between the islands of Cres and Losinj, which gives access to
Quarnerolo
2) - to the island of Unije Route 118 ° distance 16.5 nm headed for Mali Losinj
3 ) - to the island of Susak - Susak Route 126 ° distance 23 nm.
to head straight to S (my favorite)
ISLAND CRES (CRES) - Entering the Kvarner after crossing the dry
of Galliola - Galijola-44 ° 43'97''N-14 ° 10'29''E-
marked by a lighthouse, where during the Great War was captured, after
with submarine stranded, Nazario Sauro who was later executed as a deserter
being a native of Pula, then Austria, one reaches the great
Cres, just off the coast indented with deep water where it is easy to find boats
fishermen who set aside the pots from which you can buy
live shrimp for cooking bordo.Lungo
steep slopes, windy days, it is easy to observe the flight of a griffin, a species vulture
quite common on this island (I have seen 5 in a day).
another species, they say, is quite common in Kvarner
consists of the sharks that come in the wake of ships bound for the port of Rijeka. I have not ever seen
but the tales of fishermen and the safety nets put in front of the beaches of Opatija
advise caution when diving into deep water
.
Osser (OSOR) -44 ° 41'80''N-14 ° 23'44'E - A small town with a beautiful church and
an imposing bell tower, which overlooks the canal that separates the islands of Cres
and Losinj. There is a swing bridge which allows you to go through
boat from the Kvarner Quarnarolo and will open at 9.00 and at 17.00
(INSCIALLAH!!), we must be careful when crossing the
current is very intense. It can be moored along a quay on the north side
mail and there are some restaurants but they do not know.
After the bridge will pass through a channel characterized by shallow muddy
well marked by beacons, to reach the Channel of Losinj -
Losinski Canal. Continue for about 2 nm. On the island of Losinj,
you reach the village of NEREZINE-44 ° 39'40''N-14 ° 23'86''E
Marina where there is little in which to spend the night until the opening of the bridge, if
Coming from Going to S. S for 6 nm., at the tip of
Cres, is the deep inlet of JADRISCICA - Pogana-44 ° 39'90''N-14 ° 30'29''E-
suitable for longer stays as well protected from wind and sea, where some
camping and a restaurant.
Continuing along the coast of Losinj, past the mouth of the channel with revolving bridge
for Mali Losinj-Mali Losinj to reach the port of Veli Losinj, Veli Losinj
Veli Losinj - Veli Losinj-44 ° 32'29'' N-14 ° 28'39''E -
On the east coast of the island has a small port in a bay where you can moor, to English,
the dock looking especially at church. I remember reading somewhere
party, proof of the efficiency of the postal service Hapsburg
was delivered, to the 800, a postcard sent from Vienna to the parish priest of Veli Losinj
addressed as "Reverend of Excellence
island country near the stern of the battleship from the church. "
there is also a biggest port, modern, equipped with beacons and dead bodies,
protected by a breakwater, a po'discosto from the center but "it's all
n'altra Hosa. We eat pretty well
in the restaurant overlooking the quay of the port under the church, "Ribarska
Koliba (tel. + +385-051-236-235), Where I found some swings
fresh and delicious grilled, while
for wine Malvasia is preferable to order in bulk rather than bottled
Vigil, which is worth nothing. Absolutely unmissable
the walk of 3-4 km, which, in the pines, along the turquoise water bays
the coast, leading to Mali Losinj.
If we go along the north coast of Cres, Kvarner
going on, we find the island of Zeca, barren and devoid of details
scenic attractions, but surrounded by shallows and depths to suit
a bath or a dive. Continuing northwards we come quickly into the great bay of San Martino
Cres-Martinscica
SAN MARTINO IN CRES - Cres-44 ° 49'06''N-14 ° 20'94''E-
Located in the bottom of a large inlet, has a harbor sheltered from the bora, while the
sirocco makes swell, with a pier where there are some moorings for a fee, provided
of dead bodies and electricity and there is also a small private marina.
is worth a walk of 5-6 km. up the hill to the village of Vidova
where you can enjoy a panorama that embraces the whole Kvarner from Rijeka to Pula on the one hand, while to the south, all the islands of Dugi Otok Quarnarolo up to. A Vidovici is the tavern "Veli Rat," with rooftop terrace, where you can drink a good local wine and enjoy
grilled specialties such as lamb and pork latte.Proseguendo
the hike you can also push up the lake as the centerpiece
island, which, for its size, the height above sea level,
the small size of the surrounding mountains and the scarcity of rainfall
is an enigma, it is believed that water is actually coming from the mountains to the coast through a siphon
Karst. On the seafront at
Martinscica, 200 meters from the port in the shade of a pine forest, there is the "Feral
Tavern (tel. + +385 51 574 251) where we ate on several occasions,
excellent live shrimp, is served raw with olive oil and lemon, grilled and cooked to
, perhaps the best of Croazia.In Alternatively, the end of the pier Sx
the square of the church, is the restaurant "Tavern Kastel" on top of a steep staircase,
with a terrace overlooking the bay and feature a lounge with a large fireplace and furniture
rustic peasant.
Continuing northwards browsing the Kvarner, doubled by the end Pernat
after about 13 nm is reached Valun
VALUN-44 ° 54'25''N-14 ° 21'82''E - Small typical village
at the bottom of a wide creek, there is a platform where they can find mooring
4-5 when boats are not expected bora.Il place is described as a kind of Capalbio
Dalmatian haunt of artists and intellectuals. I, except for a couple of
souvenir shops and a nearby boat who read the "Gazzetta dello Sport
" I have not seen neither artists nor intellectuals, but ....
There are several restaurants on the harbor in one of them told me that
eat good fish, but I do not have direct experience.
CRES-ASC-44 ° 57'39''N-14 ° 23'51''E - capital of the island, located inside a large bay
fully protected in every condition of wind and sea
, is a great place to stop on both the
pier of the country in the ACI Marina in the bay, where there is also the distributor of diesel
and refilling of LPG cylinders. The center, an ancient fortified town
Venice is full of characteristic views even ruined by the presence of nearby
shipyard with a dry dock. I rarely ate in a restaurant
because it is easy to get the shrimp live at sea, fishermen who put
pots nearby. There is a small restaurant in an alley adjacent to the port
Old Tavern "Kopac (tel. 051-571-956 \\ 098-170-80-46) managed by a fisherman, Stjepan
Slavicek, where I ate, every time, the San Piero
just caught, fresh sea bass and shrimp, accompanied by a kind of
risotto with butter and oil, which is the pride of the master.
ISLAND UNIJE-island before you come to after crossing the
Kvarner, heading for Mali Losinj
the country, UNIJE-44 ° 38'20''N-14 ° 14'70''E-colored houses with
perched on the mountain as on the Sorrento coast, well worth a visit, at anchor at anchor or moored along the small pier. It is not recommended if you do not spend the night with optimum conditions
offers little protection because the landing especially
winds from NW. and SW. There are 2 restaurants
near the pier but they offer a menu
tourist trip to the numerous boats that come from Losinj. There is also a small airport where they land
those who can afford to reach their
boat on a private airplane.
On the east coast there are some bays as Maračol-44 ° 38'87''N-14 ° 15'10''E, and Sredni-44 ° 39'91''N-14 ° 15'72''una time off-limits military zone, and to sail, but now accessible where you can stop paying attention to the weather (bora) and the seabed is a slab of rock where the
still not taken.
Continuing to S we find two small barren islands and the GREAT SMALL
Canidole-Veli and Mali Srakane very useful as a close when
is surprised by the bora in the middle of the Kvarner
as they can be lined with a few meters from the shore and give a little relief before addressing
hell against the entrance to the port of Mali Losinj.
There lies a village of 4 houses with a church that appears out of a movie
Spaghetti-Western with Terence Hill.
Mali Losinj (MALI LOSINJ) - You can drop anchor in the bay of
ARTATURI-44 ° 34'50''N-14 ° 24'25''E-entrance on the left side of the fjord or moor in
country-44 ° 32'11''N-14 ° 27'69''E-along the docks or floating docks for a fee, but they do not have water and electricity electricity and are very exposed to the bora, near the petrol station or
then moor at the Marina, a little 'far from the center, near the bridge
swivel (where are located the offices of the Harbour) using, in case of bora
strong, the mooring places beyond the bridge that are more sheltered.
The opening of the bridge, which leads into Quarnarolo, is the
morning at 9.00 and 17.00, arrives the officer that the wheel manually and
not block the mechanism (it happened to me several times). In the center is
should stock up on fruit and vegetables in the smaller islands
scarce variety and quality also is of '
good fish market in the square of the harbor. The village, a charming
when you come from the sea, perhaps at dawn with the sun rising behind the bell tower, is very nice and quiet
in spring and autumn, while in summer, is marred by
hordes of tourists and, in the end week, overseas Motoscafisti weekend
arriving in sbattacchiando throttle all the boats moored. The
most homes, a bit shabby, small villas are single with the ubiquitous palm
secular front, built in 800 by
captains and owners of ships sailing from this port, at that time the main
the routes to South America. It's worth a walk
up to the bays on the western side of the island for a swim or venture
along the path that runs alongside the sea port in Veli Losinj. You can eat fairly
the restaurant "ex Salvia" is now called
"Chalvien" on the road to the shipyard near the Old Harbour, or
when you are near the bay Cikat, the "Grill Capela" ,
near the church on the promontory, where I ate the freshest prawns
grilled over charcoal.
Continuing towards SE, past the entrance of Mali Losinj,
along the coast of the island, we find many bays, beginning with 44th-
Cikat 31'80''N-14 ° 27'10''E- Mali Losinj the beach villas, among which
a residence of the Habsburgs, hotels and beach resorts, followed by
Vela draga Krivica Balvanida-and-14 ° 29'48''N 44 ° 30'15''E-
perhaps the best, most suitable for a sheltered anchorage and maybe even at night
also making sure the stern to the trees along the shore. There is a restaurant but I never ate
. Continuing to
SE, past the Horn Head, which can be seen as a bastion of
far from the South, indicating the route to the island of Losinj, you reach the island of Donkey-
Ilovik.
ISLE OF DONKEYS - ILOVIK-44 ° 27'91''N-14 ° 32'74''E - Arriving in channel
that separates the island from nearby OF SAN PIETRO clouds, where there are
ruins of a monastery and a castle built to protect themselves from pirates Uscocchi, there are numerous buoys
ideal place to spend the night at the wheel (check distances because
buoys are very close to each other and happen to face the current strike against the
boats stern stern). There is also a small jetty where you can moor
only on the south side, because on the opposite side of the boat stop
line, making sure that no wind blows from the east, which raises a reasonable swell and can throw
dock. You can eat at the restaurant at the end of the pier where the owner prepares
excellent fries.
On the southern part of Donkey, there is a large bay-deserted
PARZINE 26'80''N 44 ° 33'42''E-14 ° with a beach-perfect for a day of sunbathing and swimming
.
.
-SUSAK-Susak-14 ° 30'86''N 44 ° 18'60''E - excellent staging point
more direct path between Istria and the south, the island is topped by a beacon
you see a great distance in the night crossing. You can anchor, in good weather, at anchor
(be careful to dry) dock or, if there is room in one of the few places along the boat dock.
This island is different from the others in a geological singularity is in fact
consists of a base of limestone rock, just overflowing from sea level, on which stands a
relief, 70-80 m high composed entirely of brownish
silica sand (unlike the land of the other islands,
reddish) . In the past the island was entirely cultivated with vineyards and
you can still see the terraces, now overgrown with reeds and weeds.
It seems that the wine produced, now untraceable, was delicious, along with
island women, who seem to have been a singular beauty, was sought after
. I once ate at the restaurant at the end of the pier a good
Buzara spaghetti with lobster.
.
