Sibenik archipelago
Continuing to S, the last islands of the archipelago of Kornati - Kornati are Kurba Mala and Vela Kurba, whose name seems to mean , in Croatian, small and large "woman of ill repute", two bare and uninhabited islands looking vaguely reminiscent of a Sicilian Cassata.
through a short stretch of sea to get to the island of Zirje, the outermost and largest of Sibenik. The first creek you come across, on the north shore of the island is MIKAVIKA-of-15 ° 40'50''N 43 ° 36'48''E, in which one must enter by close attention to dry about 2 m long that extends to Mikavica islet S-43 ° 40'68 ''N-15 ° 36'92''E-There is a small pier which approached with care because the bottom does not exceed 2 m, the bay is not very safe as it is exposed to winds from the N-NE therefore should not stop there for prolonged periods of time if conditions are optimal.
Zirje is a must for me since I met in the town of Muna, Violetta.
Muna-43 ° 39'72''N-15 ° 39'37''E- Wedged in a deep cleft in the mountain as an ax splits the island into the sea deepened rapidly so that in the middle of the harbor are fifty feet of water that make it impossible to use the anchor nell'ormeggio. The port is very nice, remember, size and shape, Portofino, little touristicization, no hotel, not even a bar, a small grocery shop, and rarely frequented by boaters.
Last year the port has been completely renovated with a beautiful marble quay, before which the sea is quite deep (+ 2 m) for the entire perimeter. The best place to moor consist of the slide of the Ferry-boat dock that comes only once a week in summer, (check times) located on your right entering the bottom of the breakwater, it can not be used because, every night, you moor a hydrofoil.
Violetta is a beautiful girl over 70 (like in everything Maga Mago-but do not tell him) that runs a little place on the sea is 10 m above the dam.
This is a kind of cellar cave dall'igiene questionable but the food is delicious fish, all caught personally by Violetta with his boat (not when the network is punctured by an old thief dolphin, now unable to get food for only , who hangs out in those waters) the wine in his garden as well as vegetables and meat (lambs and kids) are in production.
Book by phone (022/462-944) is also preparing game (hares and pheasants) procured by a friend who suffers from insomnia and go for a walk at night to the island, then brandy and bread are all made in home, all at prices you can find the most popular in the area. From
Muna you can take beautiful walks in the interior of the island, to the village of Zirje, invisible from the sea in a valley full of orchards and vineyards, or along the dirt path that leads towards S until Stupica Vela and the ruins of a medieval fortress.
S, dubbed the tip Rasohe, paying attention to the numerous rocks and islets present, along the south side of the island, marked by numerous bays suitable places to stop including the main Stupica Vela.
STUPICE SAIL -43 ° 38'08''N-15 ° 40'98''E-It 's a large, deep bay, well sheltered from winds from the N but a po'aperta to south winds, equipped with a large number of buoys, for a fee, and at the bottom of which sits a small restaurant where they make good grilled fish. Characteristic of this bay is the great abundance of sea \u200b\u200burchins on the sea floor, which can be eaten raw, sprinkled with lemon juice, or used to season the pasta.
The recipe is to remove the curly open with a knife or scissors, the flesh with a spoon, you fry the garlic with olive oil and add the bread crumbs and then fry until it Pour the pulp and the liquid extracted from sea urchins, and cook for a few seconds. Pasta (burrs) over a little dusting 'of chopped parsley, pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice.
ISLANDS CAPRILE - Kakan
Kaprije and characteristics of these two islands is the narrow strait that separates them, as if to form a large bay, well sheltered from the sirocco but open to the bora. The inlet POTKUCINA-43 ° 41'58''N-15 ° 39'95''E, on the eastern shore of Kakan, several buoys were laid, paid, frequented by charter and usually very crowded, so I prefer the bay between the islands of Veli and Mali Burnjac-43 ° 41'98''N-15 ° 39'95''E-where you can anchor in a shallow sandy hues of emerald green.
Kaprije-43 ° 41'20''N-15 ° 42'52''E-Located in a deep creek the country is almost completely depopulated and the second consisting of occupied homes until August. There is a long pier to which moored but I prefer to stay in close shaves.
Tijat ISLAND - Island uninhabited and covered by a thick Mediterranean vegetation, there is a deep inlet, Tijat, S side, where you can still staring at the ground from the stern of the peaks on days that do not involve SE wind.
Island Prvic
established, together with Zlarin, the first bastion of islands in front of the port of Sibenik, there are two countries and Prvic Sepurine
Prvic -43 ° 43'50''N- 15à47'65''E- Entering care must be taken to the rocks in front of the mouth. There is a small dam which moor bow to the bottom poor.
Sepurina 44'10''N15 ° 47'02''E-43 °-It is a small village with a characteristic Venetian style with a beautiful bell tower, the church and the houses built with narrow streets that wind from the port, where There are 2-3 places in the boat dock. Sparsely populated and not a bit touristy there is a small grocery store, absent, at least until 2000, the restaurants.
To complete this mine, although quick and incomplete roundup of Sibenik archipelago, you need to talk for a moment of those ports, located along the coast, to outline it
JEZERA-43 ° 47'07''N-15 ° 39'25''E-Place in a deep inlet, on the south coast of the island of Murter, ACI has a marina one of the biggest, the starting point and home of the Adriatic charter sailing academy, a school sailing cruise - race. There is a petrol station and some restaurants that offer dishes for the visitors but the surrounding camps and the Germans who embark on the charter. Nice walk that leads to Tijesno, the island country where it was built the bridge that connects Murter the mainland.
TRIBUNJ -43 ° 45'39''N-15 ° 44'65''E-place behind the island of Logorum, it's a nice little town where, until a few years ago you moored in the harbor only , by close attention to the numerous shoals present. Recently there has been an ACI marina built but I have not yet visited.
VODICE -43 ° 45'50''N-15 ° 46'65''E-It 's the classic seaside resort with modern hotels, shops, discos and pedal, so as to avoid if you love nature wild. The port has limited access on Dx coming from a dry, signaled, especially dangerous if you go to the petrol station, just behind. It is moored to the piers of the ACI marina, usually very busy and crowded. I did not find any restaurant worth eating while in the morning, the market is a nice school of fish stocked at low prices.
The stretch of coastline set to N and S of the mouth of the port of Sibenik is made up of long beaches, beaches and dry, only partially reported, especially near the island of Krapanj -43 ° 40'48''N-15 ° 54'90''E. E ' therefore important, if you ride these routes, stay off the coast, checking and having to hand the sounding chart and pilot book. About Krapanj, in which there is a small dock where dock is there to say that is a place forgotten by time. It looks, for those who know, for some areas of the lagoon, Burano (outside the central area), St. Erasmus, Pellestrina, San Pietro in Volta, a small poor houses impressive Lindor, mixed with small gardens sheds gear and fishing nets spread out to dry, narrow streets and alleyways, many of which are unpaved, where cats nap and play crowds of naked children and nothing, absolutely nothing to do understand that they expect that some tourists understood by those parties, negotiations shall not bar nor restaurant, only a small shop where you get something like an alien, an intruder in this microcosm that can not, will not change.
PRIMOSTEN -43 ° 35'05''N-15 ° 55'42''E-It 's a beautiful fortified village, perched on a promontory, with stone houses from the roof of rock that surround the church on the top of the hill, where you can enjoy a magnificent panorama of the gulf. There is a small harbor, protected on the pier where there are some moorings available.
MARINA Kremik -43 ° 34'16''N-15 ° 56'37''E-About 2 miles S of Primosten, beyond the tip Kremik, located in a deep fjord, sheltered under all conditions of wind and sea. This is a small sea-run Austrian with numerous moorings for boats to pass (even if a boat with the Italian flag and two kids eager to stretch our legs, noisy, Saving Silverman, on board is viewed with concern and suspicion) of where can be reached easily on foot or by bus to the marina, the center of Primosten. There is also the distributor of fuel.
ROGOZNICA - 43 ° 31'80''N-15 ° 58'60''E- This is a series of deep inlets that branch within the coast and very secure in all weather conditions and mare.Fino a few years ago you moored along the quay in front of the town, then a small village not attended, while for some years was to build a huge marina with plenty of docks and a futuristic control tower that oversees the operations. Very nice reception area and also the services and staff is a bit 'too tied to orders and bureaucratic regulations. Two years ago, I asked for water supply and the response was that I should wait for the arrival dell'addetto on stores, then in lunch break whose job was to turn the tap as hose and fittings had to put them there anyway us. E 'was only thanks to the "sex appeal" of my friend Walter and a shirt in my circle: the Fraglia Vela Malcesine, which he shrewdly donated to the secretary of the reception that we have avoided hours of waiting to get the full sighed.
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