VIS - LISS
"Deghati FIOI INSIDE!"
These were apparently the words with which Admiral Teghetoff from
exotic name but in Trieste birth and culture, commander of the Austrian fleet
III during the War of Independence, urged his men
, almost all of Trieste, Veneto and Dalmatia, in the battle to them
opposed to the newly formed Italian Navy commanded by Persano.
The clash, which was won by the Austrians will remember which, whilst providing
antiquated vessels, even wood, in comparison to modern Italian
iron ships were able to put them on the run, (for this reason
Admiral Persia was subject to court martial and expelled from the Navy in disgrace
) occurred in the waters of the island of Lissa, and I remember when,
high school student but already somewhat lazy sailor, I addressed the topic
atlas and looked where he was, I was immediately fascinated by
this small island so remote, almost put aside by the sisters. Far
was also later, when I began to explore by boat
those wonderful places, coming from N appeared in the clear days of
Bora, after passing the island of Zirje, a box of limestone, a mirage of blue in the middle
the sea, a remote southern military base
unattainable because of the Yugoslav Navy and therefore off limits to navigation.
I remember one meeting in those years, with the skipper a boat that was moored next to my
in the port of Stari Grad on the island of Kwara,
Hvar. Came from Italy and had fallen during the crossing,
in a storm that produced damage to the boat that was repaired
in the port of Vis. He says he was immediately intercepted by a patrol boat
conducted to anchor in the middle of the bay, and was held there for several days in custody
"home" while awaiting trial they were sentenced to pay a fine
and severely warned not to try again. In
later, with the advent of Croatia, the island was opened to tourism
and I did not wait long to visit us. Approaching from N, maybe
under a strong Mistral, the island looks like a huge bastion, a
"San Pietrino" on the sea coast with high, and no landing on cliffs overlooking a deep sea
over 50 m. a few meters of the coast. The first bay you come to is that of
Rogac -43 ° 04'62''N-16 ° 11'02''E-One enters the
paying attention to the rocks and Volic Krave, a hundred meters
from the coast. It 's a good port when the wind does not blow by E., with a depth of
mud, algae and shells dating back quite quickly from 20 m.
the middle of the bay and there is a bunker for submarines in the tunnels, and abandoned
visited. Going to E, after passing the island of Host
where there is a light, we enter the great bay of Vis.
- VIS - 43 ° 03'N 16 ° 11'E-IL-country is very old, there are remains of a
colony of Magna Grecia, Roman ruins which are promoted through signs
of Venetian rule, the fort built by Napoleon Bonaparte
and subsequently used by the British that came to the island after
Waterloo, leaving a strong imprint on the town (it seems to walk the streets of Malta or Gibraltar
). Going into the large bay at the bottom of the
Dx, Prirovo you can see the promontory on which stands the church of a Franciscan convent
. Beyond the headland is a little bay with fuel distributor
the pier and the ferry line, surrounded by a lush palm grove
almost African. Continuing to
And there is a quay, equipped with dead bodies, water and electricity,
which you can moor for a fee.
berth is not very secure, especially from the Scirocco, so it is always better to take
two dead bodies and, in case of bad weather, move
anchor in the bay near the promontory Prirovo. In the street is the waterfront
post office, banks, grocery stores and a fish
usually provided little (they are only fish size and variety
poor). The walk continues along the sea a couple of km up to
reach the town of Kut, from the impression with a distinctly Venetian
dock also equipped with dead bodies used for almost all,
from the boats of local fishermen. There are many restaurants in some of
which the food is good although it lacks the atmosphere of cafes
wild fishermen of the smaller islands. I usually go to the restaurant "AS",
located in a street near the dock mooring.
you can eat, with prices in the media, good grilled fish, especially redfish
that opened here in the middle, along the belly, and cook directly over coals
, flavored with herbs of the island. If
was lucky, and the owner is in the mood, waiting for it to cook the fish, you
port of fried fish (we call them in Venice marsioni) while
being a poor man's dish, for me is a small village squisitezza.Nel
of Kut is the restaurant "Lambik", in a porch of an old barracks
French-English, where, in addition to fish, you can find excellent
shellfish, shrimp, lobster, grilled or buzara.
Continuing along the coast to meet and two bays
appropriate for a daytime anchor for a swim and at the NE summit of the island, dominated by
lighthouse that stands on the promontory, the bay Stončica, deep and well protected, suitable
a mooring at night. In the bay, accessible by boat
, there is a small restaurant but to which I have never stopped. In
along the east coast, we take a close
channel between the coast and a series of small islands, Greben Budocova and Ravnica,
perfectly navigable during the day, paying attention to some rocky outcrops
, and full of places for to one stop, a bathroom, a dive.
Nearby is the Bay RUDA-43 ° 01'20''N-16 ° 12'20''E-
with "Caribbean water, seabed good holding ground, two inns and a small shop
a pier where, twice a day, at 11.00 and 16.00 arriving boats
fishermen from which to buy fresh fish. The south coast is
extends in a straight line up to take, after the
cape is amazing, the great gulf of Komiza.
- KOMIZA - 43 ° 02'63''N-16 ° 05'15''E-The port, well sheltered from the sirocco, is
by a breakwater on which there are a few dead bodies for a fee, provided
water and electricity. The town retains an imprint
distinctly Venetian with its narrow streets clinging to the fortified tower overlooking the harbor
. There are: a post office, bank, shops and restaurants
even if this is perhaps the best place in the area to buy fish or lobster
, to cook on the boat, from small fishing boats moored in port
. On the left of the bay there is a room, with tables overlooking
the sea, where there is a big tank full of lobsters although
kitchen very well with the fish.
- Bisevo -42 ° 59'16''N 16 ° 01'02''E-In-Vis and visit, especially
Komiza, you can not avoid making a detour to the island of Bisevo, a small
almost uninhabited island with a marina, poorly suited to longer stays
with weather changes, to visit in the Bay of
Balun, the Blue Grotto.
Placed inside a rocky promontory in the sea cliff,
can be visited only by swimming or by boat, provided you let someone in
boat being impossible, for the depth of the sea, drop anchor in the vicinity
. The best time to visit is around noon in
a beautiful day when the sun floods in through the cracks, giving the cave
nuances of blue.
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