Kornati archipelago - Korn
Having to talk about sailing, the combination restaurant-night berth
may think, there was the sailor on Sunday
that can not wait to be night to attack the boat, but horrible
modereccio object bobbing and sunny, a beautiful pier
stretch your legs under a solid and stable table, served and revered,
without having to wash up and spignattare dishes, no matter what reality costi.In
the archipelago of Kornati (Kornati) is a national park
subject to rules that limit the overnight stop at precise
places where local fishermen have refitted in small huts offer local
hospitality to the crews of not more than 3-4 boats ciascuno.In
these bays fishermen have placed buoys and piers that offer free
obviously expecting in return for a visit in time for dinner.
The only alternative is to spend the night at the ACI Marina Piskera but,
with floating docks, sailors in uniform and toilets rather ruin
the wild beauty of these islands, the most beautiful in Dalmatia, Adriatic, and perhaps
world, however, having to bear the expense of the mooring
often approaching the cost of dinner for two. So I'll start this little
cicumnavigazione virtual Kornati North
namely the island of Katina, the gateway for those like me who come from north
after skirting the eastern shore of Dugi Otok
(Big Island) but also for those who cross the sea to Ancona or Pescara
and reach the customs Sali (Dugi Otok)
to make the entry in Croatian waters, having been closed the customs post of Ravni
Zakan in Kornati.
Katina is a small island that looks like an open hand or a plantain leaf
, separated by two wide channels no more than ten meters from Dugi Otok
to N and S. Korn The transition N is 4-5 meters deep,
reported by buoys and beacons, also open at night, there is a restaurant with a pier and
dead bodies rarely where I stop because the bottom is poor and there is a great bike
waves caused by vessels and boats
that cross the channel to handle. Wanting to stay the night
should use one of the buoys located in the bay on N shore of the changeover
careful if you go to the restaurant by tender, in the current
channel is very strong as 5-6 knots).
The transition S is characterized by a narrow gut that runs
sighting Merigliano 4 (large pyramids of stones painted white with the apex
black) placed two by two up and down the coast of the strait.
The bottom is very small (not more than 2 meters), but the landscape is beautiful and
, with a little 'attention and practice, would involve (I
past are also spinnaker). Immediately after the transition on the island of
Katina is the restaurant "Sea" with a nice dock with
dead bodies, and in the evening, including electricity,
given free to guests of the room. There are a number of berths (and
sit) there and enjoy some great live lobsters boiled or grilled
even if the account is a bit 'salty (this year for a lobster of 3 kg and 1 kg of sea bass
we 1470 kuna spent about 200 €), the wine is very poor and can instead
, or resign yourself to drink water or do as a member of my crew that
, ordered a bottle of mineral addition, and empties
the VA to fill (sic again!) a wonderful verduzzo
that perennially cluttered locker and bilge of my boat.
Continuing along the west coast of Kornati, near the close
between this islet in the bay of Silo Veli SIPN
find the restaurant "Galerja" so called for the collection of ship models built by the owner
, displayed inside . You can moor to a buoy or
of the three (if you are fishing less than 1 meter) at the dock in front of the local
, or a hundred yards further north there is a house that if
is not inhabited at that time, has a wharf with a depth of about 2 meters in
to benefit. The owners of the premises are free range rather not talk about that
Croatian and have little familiarity with the money, so if you count
seems exaggerated, tell the lady because it is likely that
was wrong conclusions.
Further south, take the real Kornatski Canal, a narrow gut
between the main island and islets of the crown, along a
ten miles wide and never more than ½ mile, wonderful to go to sail with
Mistral strong.
The first island you come across to S, in front of the ruins of a Venetian fortress
is Levrnaca where, in a deep inlet, two rooms are located
The first "Edo" on the right has a dock with
water deep enough to moor, offering a menu of dishes based
poor, soups, broth, but very tasty. The second,
the bottom of the bay, has some buoys and a pier with a little background
and is perhaps the best place to enjoy lobster cooked to perfection.
About a mile to the S on the coast of Kornati, we find the bay
Striznja where there are 2 rooms of which the best, in my opinion, is
"Darko" comes with 2-3 buoys and a pier with
dead bodies to which it is preferable not to touch moor bow with the helm. The owner,
Darko, seems to come out from the "Old Man and the Sea" and if it is not fishing
welcomes you with the inevitable cigarette and glass of wine in hand, eyes fixed on the horizon
looking for some kind of secret sign in the sky or the sea
. Branca's wife is a handsome woman, a mother of two beautiful daughters who
when they are not helping the local University. Darko is a fisherman
excellent and I enjoyed a wonderful fish of 4 kg snapper
still gasped when it was shown, this autumn, before
be reduced to a trance, grilled and served with beets and potatoes ( There is no cost
1400 kn € 200 but we have eaten in 5 two days). Pending
that dinner is ready deserves slack
walk along the path that reaches the top of the island's highest mountain (273 m) of
where you can enjoy an incomparable panorama. About 2 miles to the S meets
the village (5 houses) to Vrulje, the only Kornati, where there is a pier,
with dead bodies, the restaurant's "Ante". The place is unique because the
master the habit, at about 16:00 to expose the fish that he caught
(sea bream, snapper, bream, etc..) Is scarce and the price is
is the same for a kg of sea bass for 1 kg of mackerel, it should act with speed and determination
blowing valuable pieces to the Germans that the delay to make
photographs. Continuing to
S, past the entrance to the Marina without regrets
ACI with its comfort (after convincing his wife and children who can live for 10 days
taking a shower with sea water), we find the island of Lavsa,
round with a vast central lagoon shallow
to remember a Pacific atoll. And 'This is one of the few places where you can stop
without having to go to the restaurant, the bottom is muddy and does not take well, but there are many
blocks of concrete joined together by large chains to
depth of about 3 meters so, as identified in a block or a chain
sufficiently free from the neighbors, you should jump in and tie a rope on the bottom
as the bay looks like a womb but
when the bora (this summer reached 60 knots) you better be sure
not plowing. On the coast there are two clubs, I personally go to the "Tavern
Hydra" which looks more clean and tidy and to cook good fish
forno.Proseguendo to S meets Ravni Zakan Island, home to the park
and up to two years ago the customs post. There is a concrete pier
very wide and deep where you can moor taking care to be provided
Neverin (sudden storms in these areas) NE
if you do not want to spend the night to make the fenders humans. There is a restaurant
but works predominantly by the boats that take tourists from the coast
that the menu is rather commercial and should take advantage of
galley.
Kornati there is the extreme south of the Bay of Opat, wide bay with a number of buoys
two restaurants that have both a dock
with dead bodies and electricity. Pay attention to the bottom and moored bow
because, although the guys in charge of helping local
mooring maneuvers will say that there are always three yards, it's units and special measure
unknown. To me, having moored've
dive with the mask and watch in horror as a large boulder at no more than 5 cm
. the helm (who fish about 1.50 m). The two restaurants, "Matthew" and "Opat"
are both cared for and comfortable with prices in the media.
extreme south of the archipelago of Kornati is the island that Smokvica
has a deep bay S facing the end of which, needless to say
there is a restaurant, the "Little Tavern" very nice and
friendly (let give a table in the inner garden). The mooring has some
problem because, apart from two buoys, there is only a small pier shallow
no dead bodies and the depths of the bay consists of a slab of limestone
, smooth as a billiard table where you
impossible to catch anything. There is, on the right of the entrance, a small pier of a house which
private mooring if the occupants are absent.
Going up the east coast of Kornati there are no bays or anchorages where
can not stand if the inlet wolfish, at the extreme N
island where there is a restaurant at which I was never able to stop (it has
only two buoys and a small dock that I have always found crowded with motorboats
).
Finally some considerations.
The best time to visit Kornati obviously does not include July and August when
motorboats and irreparably ruin megayact
these pearls of nature. Much better than May, June, September and October when you do not meet
Teutonic hordes of charter (usually despise
fish and they lower their prices). The winter months are great because
you surf in solitude (do not pay for park admission) but
must be self-sufficient because they do not meet anyone.
when you go to these places to forget for a moment Beautiful Italian style to be
: within magno-pay-order-salted and then I complain
but it is better to copy the Germans do not sit before the inevitable
"Qvanto Kosta Kvesto.
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